Have you ever dreamed of eating pasta in white washed villages overlooking turquoise seas, taking a lazy dip in the sea after relaxing on the cliffside beaches, and watching the sunset over the ocean as you lift your glass to another sun-soaked day, only to think, “that would be great, but the Amalfi Coast is too crowded”?
Let me introduce you to Polignano a Mare.
Tucked away in Puglia, the sun-drenched heel of Italy’s boot, Polignano may one day be on its way to Cinque Terre or Amalfi Coast level tourism, but I’m hoping it can hold out for a few more years.
I spent four days here soaking it all in, and this little seaside town has major main character energy. Think whitewashed streets, poetry painted on staircases, a stunning beach, and pasta that quite literally may change your standards forever.
If you’re planning a trip to Puglia, here are my recommendations for how to make the most of your days – where to stay, what to do, and where to eat – so that you can craft your own perfect Italian getaway.
Quick Guide to Polignano a Mare
Where is Polignano a Mare?
Polignano a Mare is a seaside town in southeastern Italy, located in the region of Puglia. It is about 45 minutes south of Bari, the capital of Puglia, and is in the “heel” of Italy’s boot. Poligano borders the Adriatic Sea, and “a mare” translates to “by the sea”. The more you know.
How to get to Polignano a Mare
Polignano a Mare is easiest to reach by car, which is my personal preference when visiting Puglia, as public transportation is not the most convenient in this area. For my trip to Polignano, I rented my car through Italy Car Rent, which I found through Kayak.
There are also local trains that take you from Bari to Polignano’s center, which are affordable, easy, and only cost a couple of Euros. You can also take trains from larger cities such as Rome and Salerno; however, this will take anywhere from 5-7 hours and costs a bit more. Trenitalia is the largest of the train companies serving the major cities from Bari.
Buses are also available, and while slower and less frequent, they are ideal if you’re on a budget. FlixBus is a great option for traveling throughout Italy and is a good choice if you’re on a budget. Bus schedule information and rates can be found here.
Major airports in the area include Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI) and Brindisi Papola Casale Airport (BDS).
Pro Tip
If you rent a car, “benzina” translates to gas/petrol and “gasolio” translates to diesel! Make sure you know which fuel your car needs.
How much time do you need in Polignano a Mare?
Depending on your activities and goals, I recommend at least 2 days in Polignano. While you can certainly visit Polignano in a day trip, I recommend spending a bit more time in this city and making it your base camp. You can then explore nearby local towns such as Ostuni and Monopoli. When I visited in 2024, I spent four days here and found it to be a good amount of time to explore the area.
When to Visit Polignano?
August is prime vacation month for Italians and the rest of Europe. For fewer tourists and still plenty of sunshine, consider visiting during the shoulder seasons. I suggest visiting Polignano in May/June or in September/October. Granted, I visited in August and survived. But, I also love Italy so much that I will go whenever I can, and that’s how the cookie crumbled last year.
Where to stay in Polignano a Mare?
I recommend staying in the Old Town area of Polignano a Mare. You will be close to shops, restaurants, and the oh-so-gorgeous cliffside views of the Adriatic Sea.
La Casetta di Babbo – I stayed at this cute loft-style apartment when I solo-traveled to Polignano in the summer of 2024, and it was just what I needed. The apartment has a lofted area for sleeping, with access to your own private roof. From the roof, you’ll have views of the sea, and the hosts were kind and easy to communicate with.
Other options include:
Luxury – Aquamarea or Hotel Grotta Palazzese
Higher End – Santo Stefano Home & Breakfast
Mid-Range – Covo dei Saraceni
Budget – Casa Marianna Short Lets
Ready to book your stay? Check out more hotels and vacation rentals in Polginano a Mare on Booking.com and VRBO.
Is Polignano a Mare worth visiting?
Polignano is just one of many seaside towns in Puglia; however, it is a gem of a town and definitely deserves a visit. From the beautiful beaches and cliffside views, to sea caves, and white washed walls and cobblestone alleys, Polignano a Mare should be added to your bucket list.
9 Best Things to Do in Polignano a Mare and What Not to Miss
1. Visit Lama Monachile Beach (Cala Porto)
One of the most famous beaches in Puglia, this beach is typical of the area’s other beaches and is composed of pebbles and rocks. It can get very crowded throughout the day, but the cove is great to swim in on a hot summer day, and there are rocks to the left of the beach where you can cliff jump. Fun Fact: Red Bull hosts their annual Cliff Diving competition here every September!
To get to the beach, walk under the arched bridge (Ponte di Polignano) and follow the path to the beach.
The best view of Lama Monachile Beach can be found from the Belvedere su Lama Monachile (via Porto 30). This is where you’ll find the iconic view of the beach. The view of the beach is also the very first picture in this post!
Travel Tip
Lama Monachile is not the only beach in Polignano! There are many other free beaches to visit in Polignano. Several other free beaches in the area include: Spiaggia San Vito, Spiaggia di Ponte dei Lapilli, Lido Cala Paura, and Spiaggia di Porot Cavallo. If you’re up for a unique experience, you can also visit Cala di Pozzo Vivo, and partake in one of the region’s nudist beaches. Note that many of these beaches have rocky shores and/or only have cliffs to jump from.
2. Take a Boat Tour
Polignano a Mare sits atop a vast network of sea caves, which can be explored by boat tour. The boat tours will last approximately 1.5-2 hours and offer a stunning new vantage point of Polignano. Depending on your boat tour, you can take a dip in the water, paddleboard, or toast to the cliffside town with a glass of prosecco before returning.
Book your Polignano a Mare boat tour here!
3. Ponte Borbonico
Walk along the 15 meter high bridge, Ponte Borbonico, and take in the views of one of Puglia’s most beautiful beaches, the Lama Monachile Beach, below. From the bridge, you will see the beautiful turquoise waters to the east and is a great place to take in the iconic views.
4. Explore the Old Town
Exploring any new place’s old town should always be at the top of every traveler’s list. It gives you a great feel for the town you’re in and an opportunity to take it all in. Polignano’s old town is smaller, with winding narrow streets and alleyways, local storefronts filled with coastal art, and restaurants, bars, and coffee shops where you can stop in for an aperitivo and relax.
5. Catch a Sunset with Stunning Adriatic Views
For the best sunset spot in town, head to Belvedere Terrazza Santo Stefano / Punto Panoramico, an observation deck with a sweeping view of the sea in front of you. From this vantage point, you’ll be able to see the houses and buildings on the rocks, along with caves that slip under the houses, which makes this entire town feel like a dream.
6. Take a Food Tour
Walking tours are one of my favorite ways to explore a new city, and by adding food, you’ve just created an ideal activity. These tours highlight some of the best places to find Puglia’s most popular street food dishes, as well as wine pairings.
7. Find the Poetry on the Walls
As you wander through Polignano a Mare’s old town, keep an eye out for poetry and quotes painted on staircases, walls, and other areas. You’ll also find unique art painted in random areas, left like little breadcrumbs of beauty.
I love poetry, and this was such a fun little finding for me. I used Google Translate to help figure out the words, and each one is a gentle reminder to slow down and savor life.
8. Take a Day Trip to Nearby Ostuni
Ostuni, nicknamed the “White City” or “La Citta Blanca”, is a great day trip from Polignano. The whitewashed old town is fun to explore by foot, but also by TukTuk, which I did.
Book your tour around Ostuni here!
9. Visit Monopoli
Monopoli is a short 15-minute drive from Polignano a Mare and offers a nice escape from the bustle of Polignano. This charming coastal town features a picturesque old town, the Monopoli Cathedral, and the 16th-century Castle of Charles V.
Tip: If you’re planning to explore more of Puglia, renting a car is the way to go. The coastal drives are beautiful, and having a car allows you to make pizza pitstops on a moment’s notice.
Fun Facts about Polignano a Mare
I love geology, so when I realized this entire town sits atop a massive sea cave, I was smitten. The whole town is situated atop the dramatic limestone cliffs that drop straight into the Adriatic Sea, giving Polignano its iconic, postcard-perfect appearance.
Polignano a Mare is actually a very old town. It dates back to the 4th century BC and was initially settled by the Greeks, later becoming an important Roman outpost.
Polignano is also the hometown of Doemico Modungo, the singer of “Volare” (aka “Nel Blu Dipinto di Blu”). While you may not recognize this song, your parents might, and if you’re Italian, you’ll definitely know it as one of the most famous Italian songs in history. Polignano loves Modungo, and there is a statue of him by the sea with his arms spread wide. Additionally, the lyrics to his song are strung across the street on Via Roma.
More Travel Tips for Visiting Polignano a Mare (plus a fun little story)
Parking here is not the easiest.
Story time: when I first arrived in Polignano, I parked legally on a side street, at the advice of my B&B host. A few days later, when I went to get my car for my day trip to Ostuni … it was gone. In its place? A temporary “no parking” sign that definitely hadn’t been there before.
Confused, I called my host, who came to help me track down my car. He was just as confused as I was about where my car would disappear to and how a random sign could appear out of nowhere. He called his brother, he called his friends, he called the police… eventually, we figured out my car had been towed.
Scrunching my forehead, I asked my host how someone can just drag a temporary “no parking” sign wherever they pleased and then tow a car, to which my host shrugged, put on his sunglasses, lit a cigarette, and offered a very Italian, “Eh, that’s Italy”. And away we went on his Vespa to go find it.
So yes, I did end up having to pay a $200+ fee to get my car back from the tow yard. But the silver lining? I got to ride around Polignano in my sundress on the back of my cute host’s Vespa on a wild goose chase for my missing car.
Moral of the story: parking in Italy can be messy. And while I can’t guarantee you will have your own Lizzy McGuire moment in Italy, I can tell you that if you slow down, take Italy with a grain of salt, lean into burnt toast theory, and try to find a cute B&B host with a Vespa – it’ll all work out just fine.
Google Translate is Your Friend
You’ll find poetry painted on the walls and stairs, and menus may not always have English on them. Actually, a great rule of thumb is that some of the best restaurants will not have English on their menus at all.
Travel Tip
Make sure to download the language in the Google Translate App before you head out for the day, so that it is available offline if you do not have data or great service.
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